—The Lululemon founder is a visionary builder possessing deep insights but his recent remarks reveal an antiquated way of thinking about branding and customer targeting, writes Eric Blais.—
Chip Wilson, the founder and former CEO of Lululemon, did it again. His recent comments have reignited a debate about his approach to branding and inclusivity.
In a recent Forbes article, Wilson criticized Lululemon's current direction, particularly its focus on diversity and inclusion, which he compared unfavourably to the Gap's strategy. He disparaged the brand's advertising, calling the models "unhealthy" and "not inspirational," and implied that the brand should be selective about its customers.
The company swiftly distanced itself from Wilson, emphasizing that he has not been involved with the company since 2015, and does not represent its views.
The Forbes’ interview triggered an avalanche of commentary, including this from Leanne Delap in the Toronto Star: “It takes a special kind of arrogance for a person—who is still raking in the profits of exercise gear—to articulate such a prehistoric and reprehensible view of people's bodies… He had to know it would land him smack in the middle of a conversation about how awful he is; presumably he’s not concerned his belligerence will eventually hit his own bottom line.”
It's not the first time Wilson has courted controversy. In 2013, he faced criticism for his suggestion that Lululemon's yoga pants were not suitable for all women's body types. While he later apologized, his recent comments suggest a continuing disconnect with contemporary societal values. However, to fully grasp Wilson's perspective, it's crucial to consider the broader context of his statements.
The full interview with Forbes offers insights into his personal challenges, including his fight against muscular dystrophy, and his unique approach to business and failure. My point is not to give Mr. Wilson absolution, but it helps to understand his viewpoint when heard in context.
Forbes’ Jemima McEvoy’s first question makes it clear that Lululemon won’t be the topic of the interview, saying that the focus is on Solve FSHD, an organization he launched last year.
But it’s clear that the interview is going down a different path when he says, “What a mistake I've made actually selling down and getting out of the company that I know more than anybody else in the world about.” And when, towards the end of the interview, the topic shifts to the brand he created, he chooses to speak his mind.
You might still think he is the awful person Leanne Delap accuses him of being, but it’s difficult not to see a visionary brand builder with deep insights into his market, and a near-obsession about creating the products the brand dictates.
Wilson shared his passion for athletic performance and technical apparel. His management philosophy, which encourages embracing failure as a path to success, reflects his unconventional approach to business.
This perspective is rooted in his early business ventures, where he catered to specific customer demographics, believing it was essential for a strong brand identity.
“When I opened my first surf, skate store, I wouldn’t allow... people in my store who smoked,” he says. “I actually didn't want customers who smoked. I didn't want customers who bought my product who smoked. I didn't want that connection to happen at all.”
He applied this same philosophy to Lululemon, avoiding customers who consumed products he deemed detrimental to a healthy lifestyle.
According to Wilson, clear targeting is crucial for brand identity, even at the risk of media backlash. "When I started Lululemon, my very first manifesto line—which is what used to be on the bag, and this is 1990, so you gotta take it in context—but it was Coke and Pepsi are the tobacco of the future. Great marketing, terrible product. I learned that…I don't want people that are drinking Coke and Pepsi, because I could see the obesity epidemic happening in the US even in 1995.”
Wilson's stance on brand advertising and customer selection, while controversial, raises critical questions about brand identity and aspirational marketing.
Historically, brands have often used aspirational figures in their advertising, a strategy that has proven effective over time. In the fashion and lifestyle industry in particular, brands have used images of idealized lifestyles and bodies to attract customers, creating a sense of desire and exclusivity.
However, branding and advertising is changing. Inclusivity and diversity are becoming increasingly important to consumers, who now expect brands to reflect and respect a broader range of experiences and identities. Brand identity and core values must evolve and respond to the changing expectations of consumers. This includes embracing diversity in all its forms—not just in advertising but in product offerings, company culture, and community engagement.
Wilson's focus on product quality and technical aspects of fabric may be commendable, but his perspective on brand exclusivity and customer targeting seems antiquated in today's more inclusive market.
This shift is not just a moral imperative, but also a business one, as brands that fail to adapt risk alienating a significant portion of their market. In this context, Wilson’s comments and approach to branding seem out of touch with the current ethos, and overlook the importance of representation in marketing.
Today, consumers seek brands that resonate with their values and experiences. They want to see themselves reflected in the products they buy and the brands they support. This shift towards inclusive marketing is not just about avoiding backlash; it's about building a genuine connection with a diverse customer base.
Despite the controversy, Wilson's contributions to the industry should not be overlooked. His insights into technical apparel and his innovative approach to branding have left an indelible mark on the fashion world. However, his recent comments remind us that brand leaders must adapt to changing social norms and expectations.
Éric Blais is president of Headspace Marketing, a consultancy that helps marketers build brands in Quebec. He can be reached at feedback@headspacemarketing.
